One is from
Italy. The other is distinctly Californian. One has a history that can be
traced back thousands of years, the other less than 200. One DNA test says that
they are one in the same. Another does not. Which is it? The answer varies as
much as the wines themselves. But one thing is for certain, Primitivo and
Zinfandel can both produce a wide array of wines and some can be quite
wonderful. It can be difficult to separate the fact from the fiction with these
distinct yet similar varietals, but there are a few things to know about each.
First things
first. Are they the same grape? It depends upon whom you ask. This much is
clear. Both grapes descend from the rare Croatian varietal Crljenak. The
Zinfandel is thought to be an exact replica of this grape, the Primitivo more
of a clone but a very close copy. But are they the same? When planted side by
side they produce grapes of differing sizes, color and bunch density. But the
wines that they produce are similar enough that the U.S. ATF (Bureau of
Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms) is considering a proposal to allow Italian
Primitivo to be labeled as Zinfandel. This is causing quite a stir in
California as Primitivos tend to fall in the value range of $10-15. Fine
examples of both varietals are dense, very ripe and high in alcohol. To know
the difference we must first know the grape.
Primitivo
We start with
the Primitivo because it has the history and the mystique. Not as well-known as
the Zinfandel, Primitivo can trace its lineage from the ancient Phoenicians who
settled in the province of Apulia (Puglia), the heel of Italy’s boot. Many
legends surround this grape. They range from the hard to prove (the wine served
at the Last Supper is said to be Primitivo) to the hard to believe (it is
called Primitivo because it is thought to be the first, or Primi, grape). The
truth may lie somewhere in between, but we do know that it is called Primitivo
for its propensity to ripen before all other varietals.
Primitivo
thrives today in its original home of Apulia. This tiny region is renowned for
massive production of ordinary wines. In fact the heel of Italy’s boot produces
more wine than the entire continent of Australia. Vines are coaxed to their
highest yields, most of which end up being either shipped north for blending
with other wines or re-fermented for industrial alcohol. But change is afoot
for this tiny region.
New world
techniques, low yields and careful winery management have brought new examples
of Apulian wines to the forefront of southern Italy. Instead of flabby and thin
wines we have rich, concentrated and hearty versions that develop well under
the hot Italian sun. Primitivos tend to be juicy, well structured, heavy with
pigment and concentration, and high in alcohol. Lighter versions can be floral
and fruity, but these are becoming increasingly rare. Aromas and flavors of
ripe blackberries, violets and pepper are common. Primitivos can be wonderful
value wines, and even reserve bottles are rarely more than $20. The best
examples come from the coastal region of Manduria, though many forward-thinking
producers are trying the outlying regions as well. Some of the most famous
wine-making names of Italy are trying to capitalize on Primitivo’s long overdue
success. In the future look for wines from Antinori, Zonin and Pasqua along
with established producers of Primitivo such as Rubino, Tormaresca and Masseria
Pepe.
Zinfandel
Even the most
novice of wine enthusiasts has probably heard the name Zinfandel, be it the
hearty red version or the ubiquitous sweet pink garbage that changed the
American wine scene in the 1980s. So famous was this plonk in fact that the red
version was almost lost to antiquity. But Zinfandel has quite the storied past
in America, even if it is packed into a couple of hundred years.
First brought
to the U.S. in 1820 as a clipping from the Imperial Austrian Plant Species
Collection, Zinfandel quickly made its way across the country gaining notoriety
for its vigor and high yield. During the gold rush of the late 19th century
Zinfandel was a favorite among miners and immigrants longing for wine similar
to that of their homeland. Prohibition did nothing to slow its growth, and by
the 1950s it occupied some of the most famous areas of northern California. As
other varietals grew in popularity, Zinfandel was relegated to producing mainly
jug wine in the hot central regions of California. A large surplus in the 1980s
led to the production of White Zinfandel, made by either shortening the contact
of the wine with the skins during fermentation, or by blending it with light,
fruity varietals such as Riesling. This was a rousing success, and the true
version of Zinfandel was pushed to the brink of obscurity.
But during the
1990s a few wineries in California began to make wonderful reds from the
Zinfandel grape. Wineries such as Ridge, Turley and Ravenswood proved that
Zinfandel could be a heavy, hearty and world-class red wine. The wines they
created were rich, heavy with black fruits and almost sweet from the high sugar
content in the very ripe grapes. An explosion in popularity occurred and today
there are hundreds of great Zinfandels coming from all of the major wine
growing areas of California. Particularly good are versions that boast an “old
vines” designation on the label. The “old” in this case often is 40+ years but
can be as high as 100 years.
But Zinfandel
is not without its faults. The high sugar content can lead to very high alcohol
content, with levels of 15% abv. and higher quite common. If left unchecked
these wines can taste hot or have volatile acidity which makes the wine
unstable and prone to a short life span. Despite its resistance to rot and
disease Zinfandel can be hard to grow. Grapes on a single cluster can range
from green and hard to raisiny and overripe, thus requiring more than one pass
through the vineyard during harvest time. Like many wines it is often the winery
or the producer that matters as much as the vintage or location. Look for fine
examples of Zinfandel from Robert Biale and Seghesio or head for the better
regions of Dry Creek Valley and Lodi.
There are many
similarities in both style and flavor between Zinfandel and Primitivo, but the
differences remain. Grape growers in both Italy and California will fiercely
defend their version as the best, but what will happen if both can be labeled
as Zinfandel? Or better yet, when both are grown next to each other in the
vineyard. Will these two kissing cousins ever become one varietal? Probably
not, but as the lines between the Primitivo and the Zinfandel grow closer
together, one thing is for certain: We will have lots of great wine to try in
order to be able to tell the difference.
By Sunny Brown
http://www.winegeeks.com/
Gosto mais da Zinfandel !
ResponderExcluirConheci vinhos feitos com a Zinfandel nos Estados Unidos. O meu primeiro contato foi decepcionante, tomei a versão blush ou rosé que não me agradou em nada.Logo depois experimentei a versão tinta que me agradou em cheio, virei fã. Recentemente vi crescer o consumo de vinhos primitivo da Mandúria no mercado. Para mim trata-se de vinho completamente diferente. A Zinfandel na minha opinião é melhor. Tenho um Zinfandel de 1990 Hop Kiln do Sonome Valley aguardando o momento para ser degustado. Será um bom teste. Tenho visto no supermercado Pão de Açúcar duas marcas de Zinfandel, o WoodBridge mais barato e o Fetzer que me agrada muito.O Fetzer estava hoje em oferta por uns R$ 80,00.Já tomei esse vinho e gostei.
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